![]() Your best bet for detailed instructions is to find one of the quality Cam Swap walkthroughs available on this site, unless you can find a good oil pump swap walkthrough. You will also need a few torque wrenches to complete the job per specs, to cover from as low as 18 ft lbs all the way to 250+ ft pounds. From the top you will remove the 2 belts, water pump, loosen the alternator so it can be pivoted to the right (so you can remove the cover), balancer, and anything else that gives you more room to work, such as CAI tubing and hoses, throttle body, etc. You are going to need an LS balancer puller and also a balancer install tool would be recommended. I know it sounds like a pain in the ass but it's really not that bad as long as you have the proper tools. With the pan removed, the only thing you really have access to concerning the oil pump is the pickup tube bolt. You would not be able to slide the pump off the crank snout if the cover is still on, even if you found a way to remove the bolts. But the main reason is because it is a crank driven pump, where the crank snout passes through the center of the pump. The timing cover is blocking access to the 4 bolts that hold the pump to the block. It wasn’t the greatest video but I am no expert mechanic or anything but I not sure why the timing cover has to come off? But I’m not familiar with ls motors either. However I looked up video on you tube (trying to get visual familiarity with what I have to do) and the video claimed to remove timing chain cover to replace the pump. I may even go as far as putting a new timing set on while I’m in that far haven’t decided yet. Basically I’m going forward with changing out the oil pump reguardless it isn’t what I thought as it’ll not only replace pump but hopefully clear up whatever leaking in the process. I have zl1 belly pan and don’t notice any oil accumulation on it so I don’t think it’s a big leak. Looking at my timing cover today I notice it looks kinda wet so there may be minor leakage going on there. My oil pump is still good and hasn’t failed yet but it has 94,000 miles on it as well. However due to my unfamiliarity with ls based engines I naturally was thinking it was somewhat similar to older Chevy based engines where the oil pump was rear of the motor. Considering I’m going this far I figured I might as well do the oil pump. So I intend on taking the pan out entirely. I have to drop the oil pan as my oil dip stick tube broke off trying to remove it to do headers. I’m getting the flanges to remove the crossmember under the oil pan. I dropped my pan down as much as i could, which was only 3/4" or so, but all of it was needed. It would be a nightmare to not drop the oil pan down a touch.
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